Honey Spencer is one of London's most sought-after sommeliers with an enviable list of clients, including The Palomar and Evelyn's Table. Honey has a job that many people would enjoy. As a sommelier, she uses her expert palate to curate bespoke wine lists for some of the most popular bars and restaurants around the world; of course, this means she's sampled wines from every corner of the earth and knows exactly how to pair, who to trust and what to buy. OYSTEO sat down with Honey to hear about her career, her travels and get her recommendations on what we should be drinking.
The seasons are changing, and across the northern hemisphere, we're all welcoming Spring. What should we be drinking to provide some cheer?
Alcohol! Last summer, we had this incentive called The Sundowners, which effectively made us feel better that we weren't in the Balearics! It was a trio of wines: a juicy red, an orange wine, and a dark rose; it looked like a sunset over Formentera!
As we move into spring, the ingredients we're cooking with become lighter, less filling, so the wines also shift. We don’t have to do a lot to persuade guests at Evelyn’s Table to try Sonoma Syrah from Californian duo Benevolent Neglect. It’s rich and satisfying, but also carries a distinct freshness that reminds me that the days are getting ever-longer, and it’s not only the sun-drenched vineyards of Sonoma that get their turn in the light!
For spring, I would recommend trying these three wines:
2018 Savagnin, Domaine de la Loue, Jura, France
2019 Gewurztraminer / Muscat, Putes Feministes, Alsace, France
2017 Sonoma Whole Cluster Syrah, Benevolent Neglect, California, USA
When it comes to the wine, we like to showcase artisanal, local producers; London is so rich with incredible makers. Our current dessert is an ice cream layered with pear, and we knew that we wanted to pair it with mead, the fermented honey beverage. We did a lot of research, and it emerged there are pockets of artisanal mead production all over the UK. We did a blind tasting, and the one we liked the most was made in Peckham!
We always follow the food, we want to honor the food, and obviously, the food is honoring the seasons, but curiously, our palates often lead us to local produce.
When curating a restaurant's wine list, the food must lead you towards certain flavors, but to what extent does the restaurant's location, the sense of place, help you arrive at the perfect list?
The building that I'm in right now, The Blue Posts, it's in the middle of Soho, and a lot of our flavors do lean into that. Our chef, Luke, has made these beautiful custard buns inspired by the Japanese bakery next door.
I've heard you mention your love for champagne... Does English Sparkling Wine compare?
I do love champagne. The reason that champagne has bubbles is that it was historically such a cold region that you couldn't make any decent wine there without making it fizzy. This is exactly what we've been doing in the UK. However, in the UK and Champagne, global warming has meant still wines are being produced. They're called Coteaux Champagne Noir, and they're getting better and better. So, most of the champagne I'm drinking currently isn't actually fizzy. It's a bit rarer, but it's well worth hunting out.
The UK is wildly exciting; it's such a baby industry. We only really started planting vines in the 80s, but the amount of area under vine has just exploded in the last five years. Obviously, we have chalky soil in Kent and Sussex and a myriad of other soils elsewhere, leading to a variety of flavors.
Which restaurants are you recommending at the moment?
If I'm headed out of London, my favorite place to go is Osip in Bruton, Merlin Labron-Johnson's restaurant; it's just a beautiful experience. Aesthetically, everything is perfect; the wines are delicious, you can happily wile away four hours at lunch there.
The Sessions Art Club, chef Florence Knight's new post in Clerkenwell, is one of these spaces that inspire you just by being there. The restaurant is housed in a beautifully restored Old Sessions House in an impressive 18th-century Grade II listed building. It has an intimate and glamorous feel; best of all, the food and wine match the experience. I also enjoy dining out at Rochelle Canteen for its seasonal modern British menus. I must also mention Akoko in Fitzrovia, a super refined high-quality dining experience. It's a beautiful restaurant that will take you on a rich culinary journey into West Africa.
Do you curate lists for private individuals?
I do. I have a separate company with my business partner Anna Smelskaya, the sommelier from SILO in Brighton. We take on jobs we really feel we could do something with, so we turn down a lot. But yes, when the project feels right, when your vision aligns with the client's, then we do.
Where in the world have you traveled to, that has left a lasting impression?
Kyoto has never left me. I love Tokyo too, but Kyoto is just a serene, beautiful, otherworldly place. There's interesting things in wine happening in Japan now, but not much of it reaches the West, and if it does, it's wildly expensive. From a wine perspective, Yamanishi is the most established and celebrated wine region in Japan. They're producing some incredible wines, and it's such a great place to go and visit the wineries.
Is fashion important to you?
Yes and no. Because I've worked in hospitality for so long, I have always assumed the philosophy of having a uniform. That was further compounded when I moved to Copenhagen, where the style is very classic and full of neutral tones. Every year I invest in a capsule wardrobe and wear the pieces to death. My taste never changes, it evolves, but I don't follow fashions that I don't believe will last. I prefer a relaxed aesthetic, made with beautiful fabrics. Investment pieces by Margaret Howell are clothing I buy when I can.
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